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Purchasing Information

Explain the differences in my purchasing options i.e. length, chopped, wedged, standard joining, joining with splines.

Length moulding should be purchased by picture framers and/or wood workers who have equipment to cut mitered corners and the expertise to join frames.
Chopped to size frames are cut with a mitered corner to your specifications. This option is ideal for those who have the equipment and time to join frames.
Wedged frames are chopped to your specifications and the miters have been routed out with a special machine. This makes the joining of wood frames as easy as joining metal frames. The frame comes to you unjoined. You glue the corners and insert a plastic wedge into the prerouted slots, and simply adjust the corners until they are aligned. When the glue sets, your frame is ready to be used. This option is available on all unfinished and quick ship wood frames.
Standard joining uses a wedge that is inserted into the bottom of the frames (same as the wedge option above). This system makes a strong joint and leaves no nail holes showing.
Spline joining is another joining method. We glue each corner using clamps, then cut slots and insert matching or contrasting wood splines. Because the spline joint offers a larger glue area, the joint becomes very strong and finishes beautifully.

If I order moulding in length what lengths do they come in?
Moulding comes in random lengths. Most are between 8 - 10'. Because they do vary, we will come as close as we can to sending the amount that you order. The UPS shipping maximum is 8'. To ensure that you are ordering the correct amount of moulding, it is a good idea to tell us the size of the frames you are making and we will ensure that the moulding is enough for your order. If the moulding needs to be cut for shipping, we will cut it to maximize your yield. For moulding lengths over 8' (unless otherwise specified) we will cut them:

9' will be cut to   5' and 4'
10' will be cut to   6 and 4'
11' will be cut to   6' and 5'
12' will be cut to   7' and 5'

What type of wood should I select?
The choice of wood will impact your frame presentation. The following describes the differences among the woods.

Maple is our most popular wood. It is strong and has very little grain pattern. It is neutral in color. Because of its unobtrusive appearance it is often used by galleries and museums.

Cherry is light red to dark in color. The grain is straight and mild. It has medium strength. Dye stains are most commonly used. The natural cherry finish is our most popular on this wood. This wood is most affected by light and will darken beautifully with age.

Ash is white to brown in color. The grain is plain or fiddle back. It is strong. Wiping stains are most often used on this wood. It is best used when the strong grain pattern of the wood is complementary to the artwork presentation.

Walnut is pale to chocolate in color. The grain varies from straight to irregular. It is a strong wood. Dye or oiled stains are most commonly used. We find that this is most often ordered by museums that are matching other frames in their collection.

Basswood is creamy to white in color. The grain is straight and very mild. The strength is moderate. Dye stains are most often used. Although it is in the hardwood family the wood is "soft" and easily dented. When cost is the most important factor this is a good choice.


Should I order my frames finished or unfinished?
Unfinished is the most economical way to order. This option allows you the creative possibilities in custom finishing your own frames. If you prefer to purchase finished frames, Metropolitan Picture Framing offers you maximum flexibility. You choose the wood type and you can select any of the finishes that are done on that type of wood.

Why are spacers and/or strainers used?

Spacer Strainer

Spacers are used to separate the glazing material from the artwork when mats are not used. We stock them in 1/2" and 3/4" sizes to match all of our woods. All of our spacers can be custom finished to match our custom finished frames. A strainer is a wooden support inside the back of a frame onto which the frame is screwed or nailed. This additional support will allow the classic "museum" frame to be used on larger pictures that require glazing. Bowing can occur on larger frames because of the thinness of these profiles. The strainer keeps them straight and strong. The frame is attached to the strainer with screws. The frames are predrilled and the screws are included at no extra charge. Unless specified all frames with strainers will have predrilled holes for the screws. The strainer will be at the base of the moulding and the countersunk holes are drilled 3/8" from the bottom of the frame. Any additional space between the backing board and strainer should be filled with filler board. Besides giving support, the strainer also makes fitting easier as one does not need brads or staples to keep the art package in the frame. Use of strainers also allows frames to be taken apart and reused with ease.