Step 1: Examine Artwork Package for Flaws
Tools and Supplies: Drafting Brush, Art Gum Eraser, White Gloves
Before starting clean your work surface. Examine the artwork carefully looking for dust and dirt on the artwork and mat. Erase, clean and dust off. If artwork is attached to backing board, check to see that the hinging is holding by standing up the mounted work to test the strength. When done sandwich the artwork package (backing board, artwork, mat, etc.) together face up and put aside.

Step 2: Clean Glazing
Tools and Supplies – GLASS: Clean Rags, Glass Cleaner Mixture-(50/50 isopropyl alcohol & water)
Tools and Supplies – ACRYLIC: Dusting Brush, Clean Rags, Acrylic cleaner, Sandpapers
Cleaning Glass: Start by checking the fit of the glazing material by putting it into the frame. It should be snug but you should have a little “play” so it can be easily taken out. Lay the glass on a clean surface and clean both sides. Clean the glass with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol (this is available at hardware stores) and water. Undiluted 100% isopropyl can be used for dirtier areas if needed. We do not recommend commercial glass cleaners because they tend to be very strong and may contain ammonia.

Cleaning acrylic: Prepare a very soft surface to lay the acrylic down so the acrylic does not get scratched. Start by checking the fit of the glazing material by putting it into the frame. If your acrylic is a little large it can be sanded or filed off. Do this away from where you are going to clean the material. To prepare acrylic, it is a good idea to check the edges and lightly scrape the edges with a file or some 80-100 grit sand paper. This removes burrs which could scratch the mat.
Next clean the acrylic sheet with a dusting brush to ensure that all the dust and bits of paper are off. Peel the cover sheet off then lay the unmasked side carefully on the protected work surface.
Then remove the other paper. There are two schools of thought regarding cleaning the acrylic once the paper is removed. Some framers do not clean the acrylic at all because they are afraid of creating scratches while cleaning. Others clean the acrylic with a acrylic cleaner to remove the small bits of residue left when the paper is removed. A museum preparator client said that he cleaned the acrylic to remove the static electricity that is created when the paper is removed.

CUSTOMER FEEDBACK
Greg – Instead of brushing the plex before removing the paper cover, wipe down both sides and all four edges with a damp cloth. This gets rid of the dust and virtually eliminates static. Further, using a mailing tube or broomstick, tape the edge of the protective cover to the tube and roll the paper off the plex SLOWLY. Pulling it up by hand or rolling it up quickly will create static.

Step 3: Place Glazing and then Frame Over Art Package.
Carefully reexamine glazing for dust, dirt, and fingerprints. Clean any problems to your satisfaction. Now, place the glass over the art package.

EDITOR’S NOTE An aerosol for dusting is sometimes used by photographers to remove small pieces of dirt and dust. This should be used with caution on other types of artwork.

Step 3a: Attach Econospace to Glazing
Tools and Supplies: Econospace and mat knife or razor blade
Cut 1″ piece of econospace, peel off the paper strip and attach lightly to the left edge of the glazing (glass or Plexiglas.) Lay out long piece of econospace so it is to the right of the 1″ piece on the glazing. Cut off the excess so it is flush with the end of the glazing.

Peal off the lining paper and apply to the glazing. Continue the process counter clockwise until the 4 pieces are attached When doing the fourth side, remove the 1″ piece. Recheck glazing is still clean. Then turn glazing over and lay on top of the art package.

Step 4: Assemble 3 Sides of Metal Frame
Lay out 4 frame sections. Unless the frame is square you will have 2 longs sides and 2 short sides. Next open bag of hardware. You should have 8 angled plates. 4 plates will have set screws inserted (some times they fall out in the bag, so simply reinsert them.) The other 4 plates are thin.

Place the angle with the screws on top of the angle without screws. The word Nielsen is stamped on both pieces. This side should be face up on both angles.

Insert a “sandwich” of one plate with screws and one thin plate without screws into the track of each two sides of the frame.

Start assembling the frame by taking one long side and two short sides. Firmly holding the corner together with one hand, tighten the screws. Because you are doing this upside down and cannot see the front of the frame, make sure the back side of the frame is tight. Normally if this is tight, the face will also be tight. At the end of the assembly process you can always fine tune the corners by loosening up the screws and manipulating the corner until it looks good.

Do the same with the other section so you now have 3 sides joined.

Step 5: Slide Frame Over Glazing & Artwork Package

EDITOR’S NOTE Make sure you slide the frame over both the glazing and artwork at the same time. If you do it separately you are more likely to get small specks under the glazing and will have to reclean the art package.

Carefully slide the 3 sided frame over the glazing material and art package so it is sitting in the frame channel.

Step 6: Turn Upside Down and Attach Fourth Side
Now start lifting up the frame so it is vertical (the bottom of the frame is still on the table). Examine the framed piece so it looks perfect. If there is any dirt or problems correct them.
If everything is okay, turn the frame over carefully so it is now face down on the work surface. Slide the frame over the edge of the table. Take the 4th side (long side) with hardware inserted into each end and slide the last section into the 3 sided frame. Tighten the screws. Examine the framed piece so it looks perfect. Make any adjustments if necessary. Lay the frame back down so the back is facing up.

Step 7: Insert Spring Clips
Insert the spring tension clips between the frame channel and the backing. If the artwork package is “tight” and the clips are hard to insert, bend them flat with your hands. Conversely, if the artwork package is “loose” increase the tension in the clips. Be careful when inserting or taking the clips out because they can easily spring out. Each bag of hardware has ten spring clips. This is enough for larger pictures up to 30 x 40. Smaller pictures will not require as many clips. Save them for when you need additional clips on very large pictures. If clips are difficult to insert or remove, a screwdriver can make the job easier.

Step 8: Attach Hangers, Wire, and Bumpers
Tools and Supplies: Standard screw driver, tape measure, omni hangers, Wire, Bumpers
Determine the sides the hangers are to be installed. Insert the hanging device 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame. This can be done after the frame is totally assembled.
Place the hanger into the groove and snap into position. Using the screw driver, tighten the set screw. Repeat this on the other side.
Run the wire through the hanger, and then a second time so there is at least two loops. Then twist wire around itself so it is secure. The top of the wire should be about 1/3 of the way from the top of the frame to the hanging devices. After you finished putting the wire on, pull it firmly from the top to pull any kinks out.
Place the bumpers on the bottom corners. These help keep the frame level on the wall.
When complete the back of the frame should look like this.
Omni Hanger The standard omni hanger is the most commonly used hanging device. It can be used on all size pictures and is very strong.

Notched Hanger The notched hanger is for smaller pictures. The advantage is that it is easier to install, eliminating the need for wire. Position the hanger in the middle of the top of the frame. Snap in to the channel (it can easily be snapped out also). The hanger can be adjusted by sliding it in the moulding channel. It is designed to hang from a nail or similar device.

Snap Hanger The advantage of the snap hanger is that it is easily adjusted. If you are hanging a show of 20 pictures the same size and you want them to all be aligned this would be the easiest way to do so. Rather than changing the picture hook in the wall to adjust the height of the picture, you could merely press down on the snap hanger and move it up or down in the channel. This is not recommended for heavier pictures because it can “slip” and lacks the strength of the standard omni hanger. Position the hanger approximately 1/3 down from the top of the frame and snap into the channel. The hanger can be repositioned by pressing down with your thumb and sliding it up or down in the channel.