Step 1: Examine Artwork Package for Flaws
Tools and Supplies: Drafting Brush, Art Gum Eraser, White Gloves

Before starting clean your work surface. Examine the artwork carefully looking for dust and dirt on the artwork and mat. Erase, clean and dust off. If artwork is attached to backing board, check to see that the hinging is holding by standing up the mounted work to test the strength. When done sandwich the artwork package (backing board, artwork, mat, etc.) together face up and put aside.

Step 2: Clean Glazing

Tools and Supplies – GLASS: Clean Rags, Glass Cleaner Mixture-(50/50 isopropyl alcohol & water)
Tools and Supplies – ACRYLIC: Dusting Brush, Clean Rags, Acrylic cleaner, Sandpapers

Cleaning Glass: Start by checking the fit of the glazing material by putting it into the frame. It should be snug but you should have a little “play” so it can be easily taken out. Lay the glass on a clean surface and clean both sides. Clean the glass with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol (this is available at hardware stores) and water. Undiluted 100% isopropyl can be used for dirtier areas if needed. We do not recommend commercial glass cleaners because they tend to be very strong and may contain ammonia.

Cleaning acrylic: Prepare a very soft surface to lay the acrylic down so the acrylic does not get scratched. Start by checking the fit of the glazing material by putting it into the frame. If your acrylic is a little large it can be sanded or filed off. Do this away from where you are going to clean the material. To prepare acrylic, it is a good idea to check the edges and lightly scrape the edges with a file or some 80-100 grit sand paper. This removes burrs which could scratch the mat.

Next clean the acrylic sheet with a dusting brush to ensure that all the dust and bits of paper are off. Peel the cover sheet off then lay the unmasked side carefully on the protected work surface.

Then remove the other paper. There are two schools of thought regarding cleaning the acrylic once the paper is removed. Some framers do not clean the acrylic at all because they are afraid of creating scratches while cleaning. Others clean the acrylic with a acrylic cleaner to remove the small bits of residue left when the paper is removed. A museum preparator client said that he cleaned the acrylic to remove the static electricity that is created when the paper is removed.

CUSTOMER FEEDBACK
Greg – Instead of brushing the plex before removing the paper cover, wipe down both sides and all four edges with a damp cloth. This gets rid of the dust and virtually eliminates static. Further, using a mailing tube or broomstick, tape the edge of the protective cover to the tube and roll the paper off the plex SLOWLY. Pulling it up by hand or rolling it up quickly will create static.

Step 3: Place Glazing and then Frame Over Art Package.

Carefully reexamine glazing for dust, dirt, and fingerprints. Clean any problems to your satisfaction. Now, place the glass over the art package.

EDITOR’S NOTE An aerosol for dusting is sometimes used by photographers to remove small pieces of dirt and dust. This should be used with caution on other types of artwork.

Place the frame over the art package.

Step 3a: Attach Econospace to Glazing
Tools and Supplies: Econospace and mat knife or razor blade

Cut 1" piece of econospace, peel off the paper strip and attach lightly to the left edge of the glazing (glass or Plexiglas.) Lay out long piece of econospace so it is to the right of the 1" piece on the glazing. Cut off the excess so it is flush with the end of the glazing.

Peal off the lining paper and apply to the glazing. Continue the process counter clockwise until the 4 pieces are attached When doing the fourth side, remove the 1" piece. Recheck glazing is still clean. Then turn glazing over and lay on top of the art package.

Step 3b: Attach Wood Spacers
Tools and Supplies: ATG Tape and cutting tool

Spacers are attached behind the glazing on to the side of the frame. Unless the frame is square, there will be two long and two short sides. Do a quick dry fit and then mark them so you know exactly where to place them in the frame. Set spacers aside. Carefully reexamine glazing for dust, dirt, and fingerprints. Clean any problems to your satisfaction. Now, place the glass in the frame.

Next measure ATG (double face tape) and cut to fit the spacer. Apply exposed sticky side of ATG to the unfinished sides of the spacers.

To make the tape double faced now remove the paper.

Place spacer in frame, be sure it is tight against the glazing. Press to seal ATG . Continue until all four sides are attached.

When complete the spacers should securely hold the glass and fit tightly against the side of the frame.

Editor’s Note: Another method of attaching the spacers is to use glue. This will create a stronger bond. The disadvantage is there is a set up time before the glue dries. The technique is to put small dots along the spacer every few inches. We recommend using clamps (be sure to protect the frame finish from the clamps) to secure the bond. If it is necessary to remove the spacer at a later date, slide a knife between the spacer and the side of the frame. The small dots will make removing easier than if you had glued the entire surface.

Step 4: Hold Together and Turn over so Back of Frame is Up

Assuming everything is perfect, slide the frame over the edge of the table. Slip your fingers underneath (or behind) the frame so your fingers are touching the backing board and you are pressing the backing board toward the lip of the frame.

Now start lifting up the frame so it is vertical (the bottom of the frame is still on the table). Examine the framed piece so it looks perfect. If there is any dirt or problems correct them before proceeding.

If everything is OK, turn the frame over carefully so it is now face down on the work surface.

Step 5: Attach Brads
Tools and Supplies: Brad Nailer and Brads (headless nails that are generally 5/8″ x 18 gauge.)

EDITOR’S NOTE Over the years many methods and tools have been invented to attach brads – fitting tools, pliers with a pad, nail sets, brad drivers and tack hammers. These methods can be very frustrating, difficult, and in some cases not viable – especially on hardwood frames such as maple and ash. On softwood frames a magnetic brad driver works well. If you are fitting hardwood frames a brad nailer will prove very useful. In a recent test, it took 45 seconds to put 28 brads into a hard maple frame 24×30. To do this with conventional methods would take 15 to 30 minutes depending on your skill and luck.

To secure the art package, start in the middle, apply some light pressure on the backing board to squeeze out any air. Put one brad on each side and then pick up the frame so you can see the front and check to see if there is any obvious debris showing. If it looks clean, put the frame face down and continue to put in the brads approximate every 2 – 3 inches. It is a good idea to either hold the side of the frame with your hand or to place the frame against a surface such as a wall to add stability to the frame when the brads are put into the side of the frame. This method is not recommended for pastels or charcoals because they may be jarred by the force of the gun when it shoots in the brads.

Step 5a: Attach Strainer from the Sides
Tools and Supplies: Electric Drill with Phillips Head Bit or Phillips Screw Driver, Screws

Place the art package on top of the strainer.

Metropolitan frames will have a line or mark to show what side the strainer and the frame are to go together. Put the frame over the top of the art package and examine the framed art one more time to make sure it is perfectly clean.

Now carefully flip the whole package over so the back of the frame is showing. The strainer will have a series of holes. Exert a little pressure on the back of the strainer so it is holding the art package firmly. Firmly hold the strainer and frame with one hand and insert the screw with the drill . Starting in the middle of one frame side, insert a screw into the strainer and then carefully using a drill with the square drive, screw in the screw until it connects to the frame. It needs to go in only 3/16 "- 1/4" so be very careful not to push too hard or you will either go through the frame or you will strip the hole.

Do the next screw on the opposite side and after 2-3 screws, check the front to make sure everything is still clean and looks good. Then proceed putting in all of the screws.

EDITOR’S NOTE Ideally, the strainer should be slightly recessed from the back of the frame. If the art package is recessed more than 1/4" fill in with backing boards and/or strips of backing boards until the strainer is raised to just below the back of the frame. If you have some clamps to connect the strainer and frame this can make the job easier. Another tip is to move your table and frame against a wall. This will add support and stability to the frame when you are drilling.

Variation Step 5b: Attach Strainer from Behind
Tools: Electric Drill with #2 Square Drive Tip, Screws

Place the art package on top of the strainer.

Put the frame over the top of the art package. Metropolitan frames will have a line or mark to show what side the strainer and the frame are to go together. Examine the framed art one more time to make sure it is perfectly clean. Now carefully flip the whole package over so the back of the frame is showing. Check to see that the frame holes are centered on the strainer.

Holding the art package firmly, insert the screws so they are flush with the frame. Use a drill with Phillips head bit or a screw driver. We like starting the screw with a drill and finishing the last few twists with a screw driver. This will help eliminate the possibility of going too far with the screw. Do one hole on one side and then do the hole opposite on the other side. Continue until all the screws are in place. If you will be reusing these frames frequently, we recommend using inserts. Inserts are placed in strainers so that the wood is not stripped when the screws are taken in and out with reuse. If inserts are ordered, Metropolitan frames will come with the inserts already in the strainers.

EDITOR’S NOTE Ideally, the strainer should be slightly recessed from the back of the frame. If the art package is recessed more than 1/4″ fill in with backing boards and/or strips of backing boards until the strainer is raised to just below the back of the frame. If you have some clamps to connect the strainer and frame this can make the job easier. Another tip is to move your table and frame against a wall. This will add support and stability to the frame when you are drilling.

Step 6: Apply Dust Cover
Tools and Supplies: Razor blade to Trim dust cover, dust cover tape

We recommend putting the hanging device 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame. Measure down, mark, drill a pilot hole using a 1/16" standard drill bit.

Using a Phillips screw driver or drill with a Phillips drive install the screw eyes or strap hangers (if using strap hangers the loop should angle towards the top). Run the wire through the hanging device and then a second time so there is at least two loops. Then twist the wire around itself so it is secure.The top of the wire should be about 1/3 of the way from the top of the frame to the hanging devices. After you finished putting the wire on, pull it firmly from the top to pull any kinks out.

Put plastic bumpers on the bottom corners to help keep the frame level on the wall.

When complete the back of the frame should look like this.

If using strainers we recommend placing the strap hangers on the strainer rather than the frame. If using wire the strap hangers are angled the same degree as the angle of the wire.

If not using wire the strap hangers should be placed vertically on the strainer. Some galleries and museums prefer hanging without wire.

EDITOR’S NOTE Screw eyes are the quickest to use and are primarily for picture frames under 10 pounds. For frames over 10 pounds, we suggest strap hangers. They are stronger and do not protrude from the back of the frame. This can be especially important when pictures are being transported for exhibitions.

Step 7: Attach Hardware, Bumpers & Wire
Tools and Supplies: Drill & Standard Drill Bit and Phillips Drive or Phillips Screw Driver, wire cutters, tape measure, pencil, Strap Hangars & Phillips Head Screws or Screw Eyes, Wire, Bumpers

To apply place a strip of tape on the separation between the moulding and the backing board. Press down until it is securely in place. Trim any excess off with the razor blade.

EDITOR’S NOTE The rationale for dust covers is to keep dust from migrating into the front of the art package. We recommend using dust cover tapes which are easier to apply and do not easily tear like kraft paper. Tapes are available in acid-free and regular versions. The traditional way used by most picture framers is to seal the back of the frame with kraft paper. The advantage is that it gives a finished look. The disadvantage is that it is susceptible to tearing and the paper is not archival.