Wood Floater Frame With Stretcher Bars:




Step 1: Place Canvas Into Frame
Tools and Supplies: Small Strips of Foam Core, Matboard or Cardboard (approximately 1″ x 4″).


Before starting clean your work surface. With the frame laying face up on a table, carefully place the painting into the frame. Position yourself so you can look at the art in the frame to determine if it is centered. Make the necessary adjustments until you are satisfied.


Then take the scrap strips of foamboard, matboard, or cardboard material and insert them in the floating space to secure the artwork so it will not move.

If the canvas is bulging out on the sides, you may need to hammer it flat or pull some staples out and restaple the canvas. This problem usually occurs in the corners.







Step 2: Attach Bars to Frame
Tools and Supplies: Drill with Phillips Drive or Phillips Screw Driver, 1″ Wood Screws
Note: On Metropolitan frames the holes will be predrilled and the screws supplied.


Move the frame off the edge of the table and place a screw into the bottom of the frame. Using a drill with a phillips drive or a phillips screw driver install the screws, being careful not to strip out the screw hole. Move the frame so you can install the next screw on the opposite side. Continuing the process until all the screws are installed and the painting is secure. Now take out the scrap material in the float area. If everything looks good, turn the painting around so the back is up and the hardware can be attached.


The back of the frame will look like this when the screws are inserted.








Step 3: Attach Hardware, Bumpers & Wire
Tools and Supplies: Drill & Standard Drill Bit and Phillips Drive or Phillips Screw Driver, wire cutters, tape measure, pencil, Strap Hangars & Phillips Head Screws or Screw Eyes, Wire, Bumpers


We recommend putting the hanging device 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame. Measure down, mark, drill a pilot hole using a standard drill bit.


Using a Phillips screw driver or drill with a Phillips drive install the screw eyes or strap hangers (if using strap hangers the loop should angle towards the top). Run the wire through the hanging device and then a second time so there is at least two loops. Then twist the wire around itself so it is secure. The top of the wire should be about 1/3 of the way from the top of the frame to the hanging devices. After you finished putting the wire on, pull it firmly from the top to pull any kinks out.


Put plastic bumpers on the bottom corners to help keep the frame level from the wall.


The back of the frame should look like this when done.


Screw eyes are the quickest to use and are primarily for picture frames under 10 pounds. For frames over 10 pounds, we suggest strap hangers. They are stronger and do not protrude from the back of the frame. This can be especially important when pictures are being transported for exhibitions.